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Blog · Predator-proofing

Predator-proofing your coop: stop raccoons, hawks, and dogs before they start

9 minute read · published 2026-04-18

More backyard flocks are lost to predators than to disease. Most kills are preventable with materials you can buy at any hardware store, and the differences between a "safe" coop and a "dead in one night" coop come down to a handful of details. Here are the eight predators that account for 90% of losses and the build choices that stop them.

The hierarchy of threats

RaccoonMost prolific killer. Climbs, opens latches, reaches through wire to pull birds piece-by-piece.
Domestic dog (yours or neighbor's)Daytime kills. Often kills whole flock at once for sport.
Fox / coyoteDigs under fencing. Most attacks at dawn/dusk.
Hawk / owlDaytime (hawks) or night (owls). Free-range or open-run birds.
Weasel / minkSqueezes through 1" openings. Decapitates and stacks bodies.
SnakeEats eggs and chicks. Rarely adults except large species.
RatKills chicks. Carries disease (Salmonella, leptospirosis).
Bobcat / coyote pack / mountain lionRural areas. Will take adult birds in daylight if hungry.

The 8 build mistakes

1. Using chicken wire instead of hardware cloth

Chicken wire keeps chickens IN. It does NOT keep predators OUT. A raccoon shreds it like paper. Use 1/2" hardware cloth (galvanized welded wire) everywhere a predator could reach: walls, doors, vents, windows, run, apron. Cost difference: maybe $80 more for a small coop. Bird difference: alive vs. dead.

2. No apron skirt

Foxes, raccoons, and coyotes dig. A vertical fence stops them for 30 seconds. The fix: bend 18-24" of hardware cloth outward at the base of the run, secure with landscape pins flush to the ground. When the predator tries to dig at the base, they're digging through wire. Most give up.

3. Wood latches a raccoon can open

Raccoons have hands. Hook-and-eye, slide bolts, magnetic catches - all bypassable. Use carabiners or padlocks. Two-step latches (open A then B) defeat all but the most persistent.

4. Pop door open at night

You forget to close it once and that's the night. Automatic pop doors (Coop Tender, ChickenGuard, Run-Chicken) cost $80-180 and pay for themselves the first time you have a late dinner with friends.

5. Insufficient roof on the run

Hawks, owls, and raccoons all enter from above. Cover the run with hardware cloth OR netting OR welded wire panels. Solid roof is overkill in most places, but SOMETHING covering the top is required.

6. Holes you didn't know about

Walk your coop weekly looking for gaps. Mink can squeeze through 1" round holes. Snakes can enter through gaps as small as 1/2". Caulk every gap, replace any rotten wood, check after every windstorm.

7. Feeding inside the coop

Spilled feed attracts rats, opossums, skunks, and snakes. They bring disease and may attack birds in the process. Feed in the run or outside. Use treadle feeders that close when the bird steps off.

8. No electric line

A single strand of electric wire 8" off the ground around the run is the single highest-leverage upgrade after hardware cloth. Premier 1 PoultryNet or a standard fence energizer. One zap teaches a raccoon or fox to stay away forever. $150-200 setup.

The "kill the killer" question

If something gets in, the response matters as much as the prevention. State laws vary - check yours. Most states permit dispatching predators caught in the act of attacking livestock. Trapping requires a permit in many states. Owl/hawk/eagle are federally protected; relocating is illegal. The right move is to remove the food source (your flock during daylight free-range hours) and harden the structure.

Quick-start materials list

Total: under $600 for setup that defends a 12-bird flock from 95% of predator pressure.

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